3 Things We Got Wrong About Venice’s Regata Storica

The Regata Storica (‘historical regatta”) is a centuries-old tradition that takes place on the Grand Canal of Venice every September. The main event is made up of four different rowing races, as well as a parade of decorated boats with costumed passengers.

I was looking forward to watching it during our trip last year and did some research ahead of time to find out what to expect.

Despite all the travel articles and books and forums I read to prepare, I ended up way off about some major things…

gondola

1. It’s more of a local event and not big with tourists. [FALSE]

Maybe it was what I had read about neighborhood groups decorating parade boats. Or the fact that the races are the height of Venice’s competitive rowing season. Or about locals packing picnics and watching the Regata from their own boats. Or the fact that it’s not a recently-concocted event – it spans back to the days of the Republic.

Maybe it was all those things put together. But somehow I got the impression that the Regata Storica was a matter of Venetian city pride that wasn’t really on the radar for outsiders.

The reality, though, is that the word is definitely out. It was not the quaint, mostly-local event I had envisioned. Instead, on the Sunday of the Regata Storica, the city’s streets swelled with swarms of sightseers.

Which I did not expect and which is directly related to another misconception I had…

Regata Storica Venice

2. It would be easy to find a spot to watch the Regata. [NOPE]

While you can pay to watch the Regata from a seat in kind of a floating grandstand, the general consensus seemed to be that the reserved seats weren’t really worth the price – especially when you have the option to watch it for free.

Most people watch the Regata just like your hometown parade. It’s free to stand or sit along the main “street” (in this case, the Grand Canal).

On top of this, I had heard that people don’t really show up early to stake out a spot. So I was pretty sure we’d be able to just show up, find an unpopulated stretch, and plop ourselves down.

In fact, it seemed so much like a non-issue that Phillip and I decided to squeeze in some extra time at the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, even if it meant showing up a little late.

We even grabbed a quick bite, since it was approaching 4pm, and we hadn’t stopped for lunch.

sandwiches in Venice

By the time we went to look for a spot, the Regata was already well underway and spectators several deep crowded the edge of the canal.

We finally found a spot near a little gondola dock, where the crowd seemed slightly more sparse. And the people in front of us eventually left, opening up space on the ground for us to sit.

3. We’d have a clue what was going on. [STILL NO.]

Things I read kept going into all this detail about the different types of boats that would be racing – this kind has two adult rowers, that kind has two younger rowers, another kind has women racing in masks in tribute to the masked prostitute rowers of the past.

 

I just thought “okay, I get it. When I see boats with 2 people rowing, I’ll know they’re the kind of boats with 2 rowers.”

But I also thought it would be clear cut and obvious, one event after another. Instead, we came in the middle of it all, and it seemed all be happening at once – historic boats parading, racers (I’m not sure which ones) racing, and some random boats floating by too.

Somewhere there was a loudspeaker with a commentator speaking very fast Italian. I listened for the names of those different kinds of boats I’d been reading about, but the words all ran together.

It just underscores the fact that you can read all about something and still be surprised when you experience it firsthand.

And that’s a good reason to travel.

This week I’ve been watching the video I took, and, honestly, I’m still unsure about what exactly is going on when. But I’m glad we got to witness it.

That said, this year, Phillip and I will be making mimosas and watching the Regata from our living room.

 

– More Regata Storica Info –

 

If you go IRL…

  • Reserved seats are €60. I read more than one complaint about giant monitors on the grandstand blocking the view of the race itself.
  • Expect crowds!
  • I’m not sure how early to suggest you show up – but definitely earlier than we did!

July 2018: San Diego Shadows

Dragon tree shadows on the sidewalk

I think the fantastical plants I kept seeing around San Diego are called “dragon trees”.

coronado dragon trees

On the way back from Coronado Beach, I noticed the playful-looking shadows they cast on the sidewalk. So, once again, I stopped in my tracks to take a photo of the ground.

La Jolla Cove sunset

Other photo favorites from July include a sunset in La Jolla (San Diego) and Quijote looking at the ocean.

Dog at the beach

Have you seen anything interesting on the sidewalk lately?


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San Diego Sights Worth a Second Trip

palm trees in la jolla

While I’ve never spent more than a few days at a time in San Diego, it’s been part of some very memorable trips.

Windansea Beach San Diego

We camped at a State Park just outside of town on the final night of our trip down the coast in 2012.

Back when Phillip worked for an airline, we flew in just for an afternoon once, because we could go for free.

Another time, we took the San Diego Trolley south to the end of the line. Did you know it goes all the way to the U.S.-Mexico border? We crossed over to visit friends in Tijuana.

And, of course, there’s the trip I took with my grandma. We packed a lot of sightseeing into just a few days!

San Diego marina

 

Fast forward to this year.  When Phillip and I decided we’d join my brother, sister-in-law, their kids, and my parents on their San Diego trip in July, I started thinking about previous trips and what I’d want to see and do again.

Since I started writing this post before we left, I’ve kept a lot of those “first draft” thoughts in, so you can see what I was expecting vs. how it actually went.
La Jolla sunset

Thoughts before our trip in July…

We have another San Diego trip coming up. It will, of course, be different than past trips. We’ll be meeting my parents, brother, sister-in-law, niece and nephew there.

We’re also bringing Quijote. It’ll be the longest trip we’ve taken with our dog. We’re excited – and just a little apprehensive – to see how that all works out.

Quijote stop en route to San Diego

Getting ready for the trip has had me looking at old maps and photos and thinking about the San Diego spots I’d like to revisit.

Geisel Library in San Diego

Geisel Library

This unusual-looking library building at UCSD in La Jolla that also has a collection of Dr. Seuss’s sketches. Phillip and I saw it from the outside when we were on the campus for a conference years ago but could never figure out when it was open.

Thoughts before July trip:

I’d love to actually go inside!

Geisel library from inside

Did we go this time?

Yep! I stopped in with my parents, and we perused the Dr. Seuss art on display on the main/entrance-level floor (technically the 2nd floor).

Artwork by Dr. Seuss

Visiting Geisel Library now:

  • Floors 1 and 2 (underground and entrance-level) are open for self-guided tours most days.
  • Typical hours – Mon – Thr: 7:30am-10pm / Fri: 7:30am-6pm / Sat: 10am – 6pm / Sun: noon – 8pm
  • Hours vary, but you can check the daily schedule online.
  • The library is closed to the public on major holidays and during exams.
  • Paid parking is available in campus visitor spaces. (No designated library-only parking.)
  • The Geisel Library Revitalization Initiative (GLRI) is a project to renovate the most-used areas of the library. They’re currently in Phase 2 and don’t plan to finish the final phase until 2020!
  • I recommend going straight to the Information Desk, so they can point you in the right direction. They also have tour brochure/maps available, which may or may not be up to date, because of the ongoing renovations.

Dr. Seuss display at library

Guided tours–

  • Tour schedules change each academic term.
  • Register at least 3 days in advance for a tour time.
  • Summer 2018 tours are Tuesdays and Thursdays at 10am and 1pm (through August 30).

 

San Diego Museum of Art

San Diego Trolley

Thoughts before July trip:

There were only two lines back in 2006(ish) when we rode the blue line to the border town of San Ysidro and then crossed into Mexico.

It was a fascinating trip south. We watched the lush city of San Diego give way to parched warehouse districts and then open desert. The tourists trickled out at each stop and commuting factory workers gradually took their place. It gave so much more context to the region than the abrupt transition of driving, where the freeway hides the landscape.

Road to San Diego

However, showing up with suitcases in this sketchy part of town without transportation arrangements was not a great idea then, and it would be a worse one now. (We thought we could just look for a bus stop once we got there. Our local friends were aghast and insisted on picking us up.)

All that to say, I would ride the trolley around San Diego again, but I wouldn’t recommend taking it down to the border without a Tijuanan friend that’s familiar with the route.

La Jolla palm trees

Did we take the trolley this time?

No. I don’t think there was a trolley stop near where we were staying, and we had our car.

Current Trolley info:

  • There are now four lines – orange, blue, green, and silver.
  • One of the trolleys on the silver line is a restored 1946 streetcar.
  • A one-way fare is $2.50 and doesn’t allow transfer to buses.
  • Some transit stations have free parking.
  • Pets are allowed, if they’re in an enclosed carrier on your lap.

Balboa Park carousel

Balboa Park

Phillip remembers reading somewhere that Balboa Park has the largest collection of museums outside of Washington DC. I would believe it.

The 1200-acre park is home to the San Diego Zoo, 17 museums and cultural sites, 10 performing arts venues, as well as restaurants, gardens, and trails.

Founded in 1898 (it’s celebrating its 150th birthday this year!), what really took the park to the next level was preparing to host the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. Many of the Park’s features and European-style buildings were constructed for the Expo.

Museums in Balboa Park

Thoughts before July trip:

Phillip and I walked around there at night once. I don’t think the park ever closes. We saw a few other people, but it was really quiet!

Most of the outdoor areas are pet friendly, and there are 3 different dog parks, so it will be fun to explore with Quijote!

balboa park carousel

Did we go this time?

Yes! We had a picnic in the park, my brother and his family rode the historic carousel, and Phillip made a morning visit on his own to explore the park in the daylight.

I actually expected to spend more time there, since we were staying so close. But the rest of the family was staying in another part of town, so we ended up all over the place!

Organ concert

Spreckels Organ, a.k.a. the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ and a “world treasure for all people.”

Thoughts before July trip:

  • When I went with Grandma, they opened up a side door after the concert on and let people go inside to see the pipes and inner workings. I’m not sure whether they do that every time.
  • If we get into town early enough on Sunday, we could see the afternoon concert. Otherwise, maybe we can catch the Independence Day concert Monday evening.

Detail of Spreckels Organ

Did we go this time?

Yep! We actually rolled into town just in time to hear most of the Sunday concert. There was a medley from Westside Story, followed by part of Balboa Park Suite: A Celebration of Many Peoples, a piece commissioned by the Spreckels Organ Society.

And they did open up the side doors afterward, as well as doing a little demonstration where they let kids try out different musical instruments. Phillip went to check it out, while I stayed back with Quijote.

quijote and steph at organ concert

Current Spreckels Organ info:

  • They still do concerts every Sunday at 2pm.
  • During the summer, there is also a Monday evening series called The International Organ Festival.”
  • All concerts are free.
  • Kids, pets, and picnics are welcome.
  • You can buy snacks and souvenirs on-site to support the organ and its concerts (via the nonprofit Spreckels Organ Society).

San Diego Zoo

The Zoo

Thoughts before July trip:

The time I went with my grandma it happened to be the annual Founders’ Day, when there was free admission and so many crowds! Although we could only make it to a small part of the zoo, we did wait in line to see a baby panda. Worth it.

There is no longer an annual free admission day at the zoo – I’m sure it was a victim of its own popularity. There are still pandas there. The “baby” would be 14 now! They grow up so fast.

panda at San Diego Zoo

Did we go this time?

No. Group planning is a bear.

Current Zoo info:

  • Open every day.
  • Hours vary. Summer hours are generally 9a-9p. It closes earlier other times.
  • One-day admission pass: Adult (ages 12+) $54 / Child (3-11) $44 / Kids under 3 are free.
  • There may be coupons for $5-10 off on Retail Me Not or Groupon. You can also get a CityPass if you’re planning on seeing other sights with pricey admission, as well.
  • Parking is free in the lot in front of the Zoo. Additional free parking is available throughout Balboa Park.
  • You can bring your own food but no large coolers, glass, alcohol, or straws.
  • Picnic areas are located outside the Zoo’s main entrance. Get your hand stamped if you plan to go back in.
  • Quarter-operated lockers are located in the Discovery Outpost across from Poppy’s Patio. Small locker: $.75 (16x24x14); Large locker: $1.50 (29x15x23).
  • Luggage storage is available inside Front Street Rentals for $5 per piece.
  • You can rent strollers, wheelchairs, and electric scooters at Front Street Rentals.

 

Seaport Village

Seaport Village

A mix of touristy and specialty shops, as well as a starting point for tours. Not a bad place to wander around!

What I did not remember is that they charge for parking. There is a paid self-parking lot, meters, or valet. Even getting your parking validated gives you a discount, but doesn’t make it free.

  • Self-parking lot – Validated parking in the lot is $5 for the first 2 hours (or 3 hours Monday to Thursday) and $6/hour after that. Otherwise, it’s $8/hour.
  • For parking validation, you need to spend $10 or more at one of the shops or restaurants in Seaport Village.
  • Metered parking is $2.50 an hour. (No discount or need for validation.)
  • Valet parking is available on Kettner Blvd. or Pacific Highway weekdays after 4pm and all day on the weekends. Monday through Thursday rates start at $11 for up to 5 hours. Friday through Sunday, it’s $15 for up to 5 hours.
  • There is a trolley stop across the street, and that might be cheaper than paying for parking.

 

lifeguard station on San Diego beach

SEAL Tour

These are on amphibious vehicles. So you get a city tour, then it just drives into Mission Bay and continues on the water.

san diego seal tour brochure

Thoughts before July trip:

I think Grandma and I might’ve actually giggled when it splashed into the water.

It’s overpriced and touristy but I would totally go again.

Did we go this time?

No. And the more I think about it, maybe it was one of those things that was fun in the moment but maybe wouldn’t be the same a second time.

 

Upstart Crow books and coffee

Upstart Crow

Two-level bookstore and coffeehouse that sometimes has live music in the evenings.

Thoughts before July trip:

I discovered this place with my grandma and returned another time with Phillip.

Did we go this time?

Yes! Our whole crew met up for coffee, and it was cool to share this spot with them. The upper floor has been converted into a game room for kids.

 

San Diego tent camping

Campground at Sweetwater Summit Regional Park

If you’re up for pitching a tent (or towing a camper), this is a great way to stay in San Diego on a budget! It’s only about 20 minutes away from the main sights, but still feels more “naturey” than…city-y.

San Diego horse camping

Thoughts before July trip:

Worked out great when we were near the end of our epic California road trip! I would camp here again.

Did we go this time?

No, we decided early on that camping would not be ideal for this trip. Instead, we stayed at a nice little inn near Balboa Park.

Sweetwater campground info:

  • There’s water, power, restrooms, showers, trails, fishing, picnic pavilions, a playground and a kids’ splash park on-site.
  • Some campsites have corrals for those traveling with horses.
  • Camping fee: $29-36/night, +$1/night for pets, +$2/night for horses

Quijote at the ocean
Do you have any favorite spots in San Diego?

Everyday Magic

Vine on Pasadena wall

There are Instagram accounts where every photo looks a bit like a fairy tale.

Rain on window

I typically don’t follow them. It’s like they’re trying to create this illusion of perfection.

Instead, I want to see the real-world magic – the rain on the window, the dried vine that looks almost lacy, the pattern of the light through the blinds, the flowers my nephews picked for me. The beauty that’s all around us.

That’s what I want to share with you.

 


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June 2018: Spreckels Organ

Pipe organ in Balboa Park, San Diego

In the middle of Balboa Park in San Diego is an outdoor concert pavilion and the structure that houses the pipes of the Spreckels Organ.

It was built in 1914 and hasn’t changed much since then. I posted a photo I took 15 years ago of some of the detail wok on the outside before our recent trip to San Diego. It didn’t look different.

Spreckels organ In San Diego

One of its claims to fame is that it’s the world’s largest outdoor organ. Which makes me wonder how many there are in the world.

Have you ever seen an outdoor pipe organ?


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