California Citrus Historic State Park

On the way home from Anaheim last year, we discovered the loveliest park, made a friend, tried some amazing citrus, and learned a little history.

And it all started with a craving for donuts.

Corona

The donut shops around our hotel were partly to blame, but what really did it is stopping for gas late Sunday afternoon on our way back to Phoenix and noticing a vintage sign across the street that said “Donut Pantry”.

Sadly, it was closed, as were the other 3 donut shops we found driving around the town of Corona. But by then, we had decided donuts and a cup of coffee would be essential for our drive home.

Riverside

So Phillip got back on the freeway, and I got on Yelp. There was a listing for a place in Riverside, just past an intriguing big green rhombus on the map called Citrus Historic State Park.

Before we even got there, however, Phillip saw Mister Blue’s Donut Shop (open 24 hours) and we pulled in. We got an apple fritter, chocolate cream donut, and a large coffee to go and went to check out the Citrus Park.

California Citrus Historic State Park

The gate was open but there was no one around. We drove in past orchards of citrus trees, parked near some rustic wooden picnic tables and enjoyed our donuts and coffee. The donuts were great. The coffee was drinkable.

Just past the picnic tables, behind some hedges, Phillip discovered a rose garden with a dry fountain in the middle.

Across the parking lot was a visitors’ center that had closed at 4pm. We wandered around the back and saw more picnic tables, (locked) restrooms, and a pair of rotund black and white guinea fowl that seemed quite at home. There was a trail that wound up a hill between young avocado trees, but we didn’t want to stay too long.

Ranger Samuel

We were headed for our car when an official-looking truck pulled up. I assumed we were about to get yelled at for being there after hours or not having a parking permit or something.

Instead, Ranger Raphael Samuel handed us a park brochure, assured us it didn’t close until 7, and asked if we had questions.

He seemed truly disappointed we weren’t able to enjoy the park to the full extent. “I just wish you had been here earlier when the visitors’ center was open.” He explained how volunteers not only run the visitors’ center but lead weekend tasting tours where visitors learn about the citrus trees and sample fruit. If you like it, you pick some to take home.

We chatted about California/citrus history, traffic, and the Star Wars convention we had just attended. When he realized we were from out of town and wouldn’t be able to come back for the next weekend’s tour, he couldn’t let us leave without showing us around and picking some fruit for us to taste. His favorite tree had a variety of oranges that were sweet and complex and unlike anything I’ve tasted.

We’re hoping to stop back by for the full tour next time we’re in California!

– More Info –

Citrus Historic State Park

Parking is $5 per vehicle.
Park is open 7 days a week, 8am to at least 5pm, depending on the season.
Visitor Center, Museum & Gift Shop hours are Friday through Sunday, 10am to 4pm.
“Tour and Tastes” are most Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 10:30am, 12:00pm, and 2:00pm.

Riverside, California is about 45 minutes east of Anaheim. In addition to being the site of Citrus Historic State Park and at least two 24-hour donut shops, it’s known for the historic Mission Inn. The hotel is the size of a city block, and you can see its mission bell logo stamped into the concrete freeway walls as you pass the city.

May 21, 2016July 7, 2016

Yuma Favorites: Part 2

It’s only a 3-hour drive from Phoenix to Yuma, but we still got a little punchy.

After one of the signs saying how many miles we had left, I told Phillip, “Yuma sweetie.”

At some point, we ended up singing “Yuma be right, I may be crazy, but it just may be a lunatic you’re looking for…”

I think we each found our lunatic.

Finally, we got in to our room at the Candlewood Suites Yuma. Even though we were a couple of tired lunatics, we couldn’t resist rifling through the kitchen to see what was in there. They had us supplied with pots and pans for the stove, popcorn for the microwave, and then Phillip made a discovery…

“Ooh! A toaster! I really want something to toast now.”

Even on trips like this when I plan to pick up food at local markets, I still end up traveling with a pretty serious stash of snacks. But I didn’t have anything particularly toasterable. (Chia-pomegranate Clif bars seemed like a bad idea.)

So while I explored Yuma the next day, I would also be on a quest for local produce – and something for Phillip to toast.

Hay Yu(ma)!

A world record holder for sunny days and the Winter Lettuce Capital of the World, Yuma also happens to be located at the confluence of the Gila and Colorado Rivers.

Because of the climate and access to water, agriculture has been important in the area for centuries. Long before Arizona was a U.S. territory, tribes along the Colorado River used the flooding cycle for farming.

Like Phoenix, Yuma has a growing season that’s kind of the reverse of most of the U.S., running from fall to spring. The hot summers mean agricultural workers pack up and move operations to Salinas, California (the summer lettuce capital) – also Yuma Jazz Company’s concerts move indoors, snowbirds fly home, businesses catering to visitors shut down or scale back sometime in the spring.

Yuma Garden Company

The Yuma Garden Company is full of dried herbs and teas in apothecary jars. Outside is a plant-filled patio with vegetables and citrus from the owners’ farm and tables for sitting and sipping tea. In April, there were also heaping baskets of tomatoes and peppers everywhere.

Their rustic boho space felt warm and established, even though they’d only been open 3 weeks when I visited.

I picked up grapefruit and a bunch of purple carrots.

Martha’s Gardens Date Farm

Just east of town is Martha’s Gardens, a date farm with a store/cafe and better date shakes than we had in Dateland itself. They informed me they could even add espresso shots. Sold. It was like a delicious, datey affogato.

They offer farm tours, but there’s a fee, a minimum of 10 people, and the schedule IRL may not match what’s online. We thought we were there past tour season, but, apparently, that’s not the case. And the sign-up book had spaces through at least June. (I peeked.) So…I guess…call ahead and keep your fingers crossed.

Field to Feast Farm Tours

The Visitors Bureau offers seasonal, hands-on agricultural experiences where you learn to harvest your own vegetables, tour a farm, and then enjoy a fresh-from-the-field lunch.

North End Eats

Speaking of lunch, here are a few options for food around the downtown area.

Lutes Casino

At one point in the Lutes Casino building’s 115-year history, it was an actual casino owned by R.H. Lutes. Currently, it’s an amiably-divey hamburger joint that claims to be “where the elite meet.” They serve salsa in syrup pitchers and have some weird food mashups. Want a hot dog on a cheeseburger? Or wrapped in a tortilla and fried?

My reply is no, but both are on the menu.

The special of the day was an Angus burger so good it made me think this might be where the elite meet after all.

They probably just don’t order the taco dog.

Das Bratwurst Haus

Das Bratwurst Haus is a German restaurant, apparently catering to the winter visitors. True to his German roots, Der Husband had to go check it out. And then required apfelkuchen, which is like a lovely hybrid between apple pie and cake.

North End Coffeehouse

Situated in half of the historic Gandolfo theater, North End Coffeehouse has their own roasting company, in-house baker, and is a welcoming spot to spend time.

Not only did they have some good, well-crafted coffee to remedy the weak brew from the hotel that morning, they had one bagel left.

I got it to-go, so Phillip could test out the toaster.

Breakfast

Our second morning in Yuma started with an herb bagel from North End Coffeehouse and sweet grapefruit from Yuma Garden Company. I also remembered reading a tip somewhere about doubling up on hotel coffee packets, so that helped to rectify the weak coffee situation.

Once we were fueled up and checked out, I wanted to show Phillip some of the historical sites I’d scoped out the day before.

Yuma-st Remember This

The Quechan Reservation

The Fort Yuma/Quechan Reservation straddles the Colorado River, extending into both California and Arizona – probably because the Quechan tribe was there before these state boundaries, before the need to transliterate their name as Quechan or Kwatsan or Kwtsaan, before the Spanish referred to them as the Yuma.

To learn about Quechan history and culture, check out the interpretive trails in Sunrise Point Park and the cultural center inside Quechan Casino.

I’d seen a sign for crafts (yes, please!) the day before, so Phillip and I went in search of the museum gift shop whose museum had to close due to structural damage.

We never did find it and, honestly, that was partly due to getting in an argument over directions. Real life isn’t all late-night Billy Joel and apfelkuchen.

I now have a better idea how to find the museum gift shop:

Go when it’s actually open (weekdays 8am-5pm).
Follow the signs north of Ocean-to-Ocean Bridge.
Don’t get in a fight with your significant other.
Look for a modular building next to the museum.

The Quechan Senior Center Gift Shop (472 Quechan Drive, Winterhaven) also has handcrafted items.

Ocean-to-Ocean Bridge

When automobiles were still a new thing and Colorado River steamboats a recent memory, a highway across the U.S. was a pretty big deal. The single lane steel bridge over the Yuma Crossing made a crucial connection, which earned it the impressive name “Ocean-to-Ocean Bridge.”

Also, bends in the river/the state line mean that you can go north over the bridge and end up in California without even realizing it.

A few other notes on historical sites in the area…

The St. Thomas Mission on Indian Hill has Saturday and Sunday Masses, or you can call (760) 572-0283 to arrange a visit at another time.

Territorial Prison – A former prison, then high school, now museum.
Pivot Point Interpretive Plaza was recommended for getting oriented. Maybe if I’d gone there first I wouldn’t have gotten lost on the way to the gift shop. Maybe.

Quartermaster Depot Museum – The railroad was also important in Yuma’s development, and trains haven’t stopped running.
The Yuma County Courthouse in my Good Roads book burned down in 1927. Since its blockier replacement was built on the same site, I still had to get a photo.

The Art Deco-ness of the Masonic Lodge catty-corner from the Courthouse caught my eye.

See Yuma Later

We took a different route home through the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge. Its visitor center is really close to Martha’s Garden but not open on Saturdays. The Refuge itself, however, is always open. There are no gates and only one designated trail (in Palm Canyon, which we visited a few years ago).

We didn’t have time to hike this time, but we are already thinking about when we can return to the area. Maybe we’ll go back during next year’s ArtBeat or once Candlewood Suites finishes the renovations they have scheduled for this year. (We’ll also have to get in town early enough for the evening reception – apparently, they do a whole dinner on Mondays and Thursdays. I need to investigate.)

For this trip, we did stop along the road in Kofa long enough to listen to the quiet, look for desert blooms, and watch the evening light transform the Refuge’s jagged mountain ranges.

—
Big thank yous to…

IHG/Candlewood Suites Yuma for hosting our stay, especially to General Manager Gel Lemmon and Director of Marketing John Lizarraga, who are both fabulous people who took time to fill me in on the area.
Ann Walker of the Yuma Visitors Bureau for providing a ton of great resources.
Brian Golding, Sr., EDA Director of the Quechan Indian Tribe for providing information on Quechan cultural sights.

Edited: A reference to “Candlewood” was changed to “Candlewood Suites” for clarity and per the request of IHG Corporate Communications.

March 3, 2016March 3, 2016

Exploring 3 Sides of Charlottesville, Virginia

Even though it was our first time in central Virginia, something felt familiar about the wooded hills we were driving through.

“Why does this landscape remind me of a painting in an American history book?”

Oh. Right. Because it’s exactly the kind of landscape that would have been a backdrop to the colonial-period events we learn about in school. The same kind of tree-lined ridges probably rolled right through the Jamestown Settlement, the Lost Colony of Roanoke, and other landmarks memorialized in art, legend, and the bold print in history texts.

Our destination was Charlottesville, a charming small town near the Blue Ridge mountains in the heart of Virginia’s wine country and just a couple hours south of Washington DC.

Here are some sights to check out while you’re there, as well as places to refuel.

1. Outside of Town: Presidents and Pinot

Three U.S. presidents made their homes in the region, and all three properties are open to the public with daily house tours.

Monticello – the impressive, innovative, and, in some ways, quirky house Thomas Jefferson designed for himself. We were able to visit and will be telling you more about it in a separate post.
Ash Lawn-Highland – James Monroe’s home, also in Charlottesville near Monticello.
Montpelier – James Madison’s home, which is about 25 minutes away in the town of Orange.

Eat + Drink

While there is a cafe at Monticello, we opted instead for lunch at the nearby Michie Tavern, a historic site itself with a museum, shops, servers in 18th century garb, and a killer buffet. (Seriously. You’ll be hearing more about that, as well.)

Intertwined with these sites is wine country. Thomas Jefferson was instrumental in bringing wine grape cultivation to the U.S., so the historic roots of the area’s vineyards run deep. You’ll probably pass several en route to visit the presidential residences.

My cousin’s wedding was at Trump Winery – yes, it’s owned by that Trump family. But considered on its own, it’s a gorgeous venue with good food and good wine. If you feel the product trumps politics, you can stop in for an afternoon tasting.

We enjoyed a bottle of wine from Prince Michel Vineyard & Winery, which is located in Leon, north of James Madison’s Montpelier. They have a barrel cave with a wine shop above it and offer events like Sunday brunch and paint nights.

The Jefferson Vineyards are located on the grounds where Thomas Jefferson had wanted to establish a commercial vineyard.

2. Pedestrian Perfect Downtown

The historic downtown street has been replaced by a brick walkway with trees, benches, restaurant seating, and sometimes vendor booths and buskers. On either side are lots of places to shop, eat and drink, an ice skating rink, a movie theater, and an outdoor concert venue.

The wide walkways allow plenty of room for community events, like First Night Virginia, a performing-arts-centered celebration on New Year’s Eve.

You can see a short film on Vimeo about the history of downtown Charlottesville and the pedestrian mall.

https://vimeo.com/42652821

Eat + Drink

We spent most of our time in the downtown area.

The Omni Charlottesville Hotel, where we stayed, basically opens right up to the downtown mall. It has a restaurant and a sporadically-open coffee shop in the lobby.

Mudhouse, on the other hand, seemed like it was open (and busy) every time we passed by (actual hours are 7a-10p most days). They have really good coffee. In fact, they were on USA Today’s Top 10 coffee shop list and a Roast Magazine micro roaster finalist.

Timberlakes – drug store/soda fountain/sandwich shop opened in 1890. I tried the staff’s highly-recommended pimento cheese sandwich, which turned out to be basically a cold cheese log and spread on toast. All that to say, I’d recommend going there for the drinks. The front of the store also has any drug store essentials you might need.

South Street Brewery – while they do have seriously good burgers, their offerings go beyond typical pub fare to include a really nice variety of salads and delicious desserts. The beer drinkers at the table seemed happy with that too.

3. University of Virginia

The UVA is just over a mile from downtown, so a little of that college town vibe still seeps over.

There’s a free trolley that runs between the Downtown Mall and UVA with stops at the Amtrak and Greyhound Bus Stations.

Thomas Jefferson himself founded the university and (probably) designed its famed rotunda, a UNESCO world heritage site – along with the rest of the Academical Village and Monticello. The rotunda is currently undergoing renovations and is due to reopen this summer.

Eat + Drink

Next to the campus is a series of craftsman-style former student resident buildings that have been converted into the Oakhurst Inn and cafe, where we got breakfast on the way out of town. We called about 10 minutes ahead, and they had my insanely good breakfast sandwich and coffee ready for us to pick up when we got there.

Monticello Artisan Trail

The Monticello Artisan Trail winds through this entire area. Formerly known as the Monticello Wine Trail, it includes wineries, breweries, farms, artisan studios, and galleries.

I’d love to go back and spend more time in the area.

—

Revolutionary War painting by Henry Alexander Ogden (c. 1897). Public domain.

Thank you to Visit Charlottesville for assisting us with this trip. We were guests of Monticello and Michie Tavern when visiting each site. We received media rates for our stay at the Omni Hotel Charlottesville and a complimentary bottle of Prince Michel wine.

March 12, 2015December 4, 2018

The Farm at South Mountain

Have you been to The Farm at South Mountain? It has 3 restaurants, a big grassy field with pecan trees and picnic tables, a handful of shops, a crepe truck on the weekends, and, yes, a small organic farm. It’s a delightful place to spend the day. Phillip and I like to get breakfast from Morning Glory Cafe, or a picnic basket or cup of coffee from The Farm Kitchen, and then wander around.

The Botanica shop has unique garden and gifty things. On Saturdays, they set up a table in front of their chalk art wall and sell various local foodstuffs, like salsa and honey.

Maya’s Farm has an organic produce stand and its own CSA. Last time we were there, they were demonstrating simple ways to use more vegetables with samples of this amazing salad and sauteed breakfast radishes.

About 20 years ago (yikes), my family briefly lived at the base of South Mountain. On the way to school, we would drive down Baseline Road past all these beautiful fields of greens and flowers with little roadside stores selling local produce, sweets, nuts, and flowers. There are still a few left, but most have been replaced by stuccoed condos and strip malls.

The Farm is a way to preserve some of that open space, to keep the land viable and beautiful, to nourish the community in a way that asphalt and stucco simply can’t.