Stolen de Kooning Painting Restored to Tucson Museum

University of Arizona Museum of Art (UAMA) entrance
University of Arizona Museum of Art today.

 

“The art heist went down without a hitch in only 15 minutes.”

Maria Woodie, ArtistsNetwork

The Crime: Tucson 1985

The University of Arizona Museum of Art (UAMA) wasn’t even open yet the morning after Thanksgiving 1985, when an employee arrived to find a man and a woman already waiting outside. The gregarious couple managed to talk their way in, following the employee into the building.

University of Arizona Museum of Art in 1982
University of Arizona Museum of Art in 1982 via Gannett.

The woman, wearing a red jacket and a scarf in her hair, chatted up a security guard, while her mustachioed partner went upstairs toward one of the museum’s most important works.

staircase at UAMA

Woman-Ochre had been in the museum’s collection since 1958. It was unceremoniously taken off exhibit when this Black Friday visitor hacked the canvas out of its frame, rolled it up, stuffed it under his jacket (or somewhere), and made a hasty exit with his accomplice.

de Kooning frame
The empty frame of the missing de Kooning painting via UANews.

The two were peeling out of the parking lot with the painting before anyone at the museum realized what had just occurred. Back then, the UAMA didn’t have security cameras, and there were no leads. All they had was testimony from the few eyewitnesses, police composite sketches, and an empty frame.

sketches of art thieves at UAMA
Composite police sketches of the thieves, along with the empty frame they left behind. On display at UAMA’s Restored exhibition.

UAMA put the theft insurance money they received from the state into getting surveillance cameras and otherwise tightening up their security.

Possibly unrelated, but the university has also renovated the area, so you can no longer pull a car right up to the front of the museum.

UAMA
UAMA today – with security cameras.

Periodically, UAMA would remind the public of the missing painting. Staff held out hope for its return, but they really didn’t know if they’d ever see it again.

And, for over 30 years, they didn’t.

 

Willem de Kooning with Woman I, c. 1952
Willem de Kooning with Woman I peering over his shoulder, c. 1952. By Kay Bell Reynal, Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

The Origin: New York 1955

“Beauty becomes petulant to me. I like the grotesque. It’s more joyous.”

– Willem de Kooning

The painting they had stolen was Woman-Ochre by Willem de Kooning, who is considered to be one of “the twentieth century’s most influential artists.” He was a contemporary of New York abstract expressionists like Arshile Gorky, Franz Kline, Jackson Pollock, Ad Reinhardt, and Mark Rothko.

Jackson Pollock painting
Jackson Pollock, Number 20 (from 1950), painted on the back of a game board.

Woman-Ochre is part of the controversial series of Women paintings de Kooning did in the early 1950s. Described by some as “aggressive” or “violent,” they were too abstract to be considered portraits, but the recognizable human forms meant they weren’t abstract enough for de Kooning’s avant-garde friends.

Woman-Ochre painting by Willem de Kooning
Woman-Ochre by Willem de Kooning, 1955.

Perhaps his refusal to fit neatly into categories is part of what has kept people intrigued by de Kooning’s art over the years. His works are “among the most marketable in the world.” In 2016, his piece Interchange sold for $300 million, making it the world’s most expensive painting at the time. The University of Arizona (UA) estimated Woman-Ochre itself to be worth $160 million in 2005.

House in Cliff, New Mexico behind a fence with a "no trespassing" sign.
The Alters’ home in Cliff, New Mexico. By Cheryl Evans/The Republic.

The Discovery: New Mexico 2017

“…if the thief has kept the painting, he or she eventually dies, and the surviving family finds the painting and tries to sell it. The painting is returned — but the process can take decades.”

UANews article written in 2015, when Woman-Ochre’s whereabouts were still unknown

In 2017, a retired public school speech therapist named Rita Alter passed away in Cliff, New Mexico, a town of under 300 people. Her husband, Jerry had passed a few years before, so their nephew was left in charge of dealing with the house and eclectic estate.

 tile-covered pyramid
A tile-covered pyramid, one of the random assortment of possessions the Alters left behind. Image Courtesy of David Farley via Arizona Republic.

Most of the furniture and some other household items were sold as a lot to Manzanita Ridge Furniture + Antiques in nearby Silver City for $2000.

Manzanita Ridge Antique Store
Manzanita Ridge Furniture and Antiques via their Facebook page.

That included an intriguing mid-century painting that was found awkwardly hanging behind the Alters’ bedroom door. Once it was on display in the store, people started asking if it was authentic and offering huge amounts of money for it.

de Kooning hidden behind a door
Woman-Ochre hung behind the Alters’ bedroom door. Photo on display at UAMA’s Restored exhibition.

Puzzled, store co-owner David Van Auker removed it from the floor and began researching the painting. The search turned up articles from the 30th anniversary of Woman-Ochre’s theft, which UA publicized to keep the missing work in the public eye.

One UANews article from that time basically called it: “Usually, a stolen painting gets returned to a collection in one of two ways. The thief may try to sell the piece shortly after the heist and get caught. This often takes only a few years. But if the thief has kept the painting, he or she eventually dies, and the surviving family finds the painting and tries to sell it. The painting is returned — but the process can take decades.”

David picked up the phone and called UAMA. “I think I have a piece of art that was stolen from you guys….”

Manzanita Ridge Co-Owners
The Co-Owners of Manzanita Ridge Furniture + Antiques. Photo on display in UAMA’s Restored exhibition.

A few days later, museum staff made the 3-hour drive from Tucson to Silver City to authenticate the painting. They were moved to tears when they realized it truly was the piece that had been missing for so long.

“The thieves actually committed two crimes that day. First, they stole an important signature painting from the University’s museum collection. They also stole more than 30 years of access from the public and scholars across the world, depriving them of the opportunity to appreciate, learn from and be inspired by a significant artist.”

Kimberly Andrews Espy, UA senior vice president for research, in a UAMA statement

How did it get there in the first place? There’s evidence to suggest that the couple who owned the New Mexico home where the de Kooning was found were the ones who had made off with it all those years before. Since they’re both deceased, they won’t get a jury trial. However, we know the pair was in Tucson the day before the heist, celebrating Thanksgiving with family. And they do bear a resemblance to the police sketches made shortly afterwards.

Police sketches of the suspects in the 1985 de Kooning heist and a photograph of Jerry and Rita Alter at Thanksgiving dinner.
Via ArtNet: “A police sketch of the suspects in the 1985 de Kooning heist released shortly after the crime took place, and a photograph of Jerry and Rita Alter at Thanksgiving dinner in Tucson the day before the robbery. Image courtesy of the police department and Ron Roseman.”

UAMA offered to purchase the painting from Manzanita Ridge, but they refused to accept any money for it.

Instead, they only asked for the gold frame it was found in, so “they can display it in tribute to the incredible story,” and for the painting to be “safely returned to the people of Arizona.

 

Aerial view of the Getty Research Institute
Aerial view of the Getty Research Institute. Via the Getty blog.

The Restoration: Los Angeles 2019-2022

They didn’t steal [Woman-Ochre] from the museum, they stole it from all of us. From everyone.”

David Van Auker, the antique store co-owner who found Woman-Ochre

It turns out that violently wrenching an oil painting from its canvas, rolling it up, and then stuffing it under your clothing are not recommended art preservation techniques.

Woman-Ochre close ups
Woman-Ochre close-ups sent to UAMA after its rediscovery in New Mexico.

When Woman-Ochre was finally found, it was a mess. The paint was cracked and flaking off. Damage caused by the theft was made worse by amateur attempts to repair it and the haphazard way it was stapled and screwed into a new frame. (Also not recommended.)

Art conservator viewing a painting through a microscope
Laura Rivers, Getty paintings conservator, working on the restoration of Woman-Ochre. Via the Getty blog.

The painting was taken to the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, where their team of experts painstakingly assessed and repaired the damage. They were able to use infrared photography and X-radiography to find out exactly what type of materials de Kooning had used to create his painting, so they could treat it appropriately.

Views of the Woman-Ochre painting before restoration.
Woman-Ochre before restoration: under raking light (left), XRF (Macro X-Ray Fluorescence) scan (middle), close-up of cracked paint (right, top), and microscopic paint cross-section (right, bottom) on display in UAMA’s Restored exhibition.

Conservator Laura Rivers spent months cleaning it and using a microscope and small dental tools to reattach tiny paint fragments piece by piece.

Work restoring the painting went on for about 2.5 years before it was ready to be back on exhibit.

 

Woman-Ochre
Woman-Ochre on display in UAMA’s Restored exhibition.

The Exhibition: Tucson 2022-2023

“I believe art should be where everyone can see it.”

Edward Gallagher, who originally donated Woman-Ochre to UAMA

After an exhibition at the Getty, Woman-Ochre returned to its Tucson home.

Mark Rothko's Green on Blue and other mid-century artwork at UAMA
Mark Rothko’s Green on Blue (left) and other mid-century works on display in UAMA’s Abstract Perspectives in Mid-Century Art exhibition. You can also see Woman-Ochre (centerpiece of the Restored exhibition) through the doorway on the right side of the photo.

Phillip and I got to see the Restored: The Return of Woman-Ochre exhibition, as well as Abstract Perspectives in Mid-Century Art, which displayed art from de Kooning’s contemporaries, showing the context of his work.

man walks by large abstract painting in a museum
Phillip walks by “Number IV” by Morris Louis, 1957, at UAMA.

Restored wrapped up today, but the Woman-Ochre painting itself will remain on display at UAMA. It will return to museum’s second floor in a gallery that has been renamed the Manzanita Ridge Gallery in honor of the antique store owners who were crucial in its journey home.

Manzanita Ridge Gallery: coming in 2023
Via Manzanita Ridge Antiques on Facebook.

More to Watch + Listen to about Woman-Ochre…

 

Thief Collector film screening

Tohono Chul

Tohono Chul Patio

Crested saguaro at Tohono Chul

Tohono Chul is a nature preserve just north of Tucson. On its 49 acres, you can find art, shops, gardens, a bistro, and lots of paths winding through the desert.

Tohono Chul paths

A Desert Corner

The name comes from the words for “desert corner” in the language of the Tohono O’odham (“desert people”), who were the ancestral inhabitants of this region.

Bee habitat

I’d heard about this beautiful place from my Master Gardener uncle long before we moved to Tucson. For awhile I thought it was called “Tohono Jewel.” It is a gem of a place, so that fits too.

Phillip and I finally made it in there when my parents and their friends who were visiting from the Midwest decided to spend a day in Tucson.

Tree with Lucy’s Warbler Nestbox.
Tree with Lucy’s Warbler Nestbox.

They drove down from Phoenix and met us at the entrance on a sunny morning in February 2020 – when we were all blissfully unaware what the next 12 months would bring.

 



I-10 freeway signs

Routes to Drive from Phoenix to Tucson

Tohono Chul is actually in a pretty convenient location for people making the trip south from Phoenix.

There are two main ways to get from the Phoenix area to Tucson:

1. I-10 Freeway (“the 10”)

  • 1.5-hour approximate drive time.
  • Quickest, most direct route.
  • Tohono Chul is about 15 minutes east of the 10 (exit at Ina Rd.)

2. Highways / Scenic Route (“the back way”)

  • 2.5-hour approximate drive time.
  • Slower, more interesting route through Florence to State Route 79 then to Copper Corridor Scenic Road (SR 77).
  • Tohono Chul is just west of SR 77, so this route practically drops you at its front door.


Large sculpture of a horned lizard.
“Regal Horned Lizard” by Dave Stone.

Art in Nature

Even though the sun was out, it was pleasantly chilly when we arrived. Many of the less cold-tolerant plants in the gardens were covered up because of a freeze warning, draped in sheets like furniture in an unused room of a Victorian mansion.

Cactus wren sculpture
Part of “Two Cactus Wrens” sculpture by Mark Rossi.

Of course, plenty of the cactus varieties there are unfazed by frost. For example, no one needs to cover 30-foot-tall saguaros. Which is good. They take care of themselves and tend to outlive us humans.

Friendly Crested saguaro

Which brings me to my favorite plant we saw that day: a friendly-looking crested saguaro! Crested saguaros have a rare mutation that causes them to fan out at top.

vulture sculpture by Kioko Mwitiki
“Standing Life-size Vulture” sculpture by Kioko Mwitiki.

While we didn’t go into any of the galleries, we did see several outdoor animal sculptures woven throughout the gardens, like a life-sized rusted metal vulture (by Kioko Mwitiki) and a much-larger-than-life horned lizard (by Dave Stone).

During the summer, it would be great to spend the morning exploring outdoor trails and then retreat into the galleries during the heat of the day.

Rock layers

There’s an outdoor geology wall that uses rocks from the nearby Santa Catalinas to illustrate the layers of stone under the mountains.

Moorish garden

The Desert Living Courtyard showcases several types of gardens you could DIY with plants that grow well here, including a moorish garden and a “barrio garden” that replicates a backyard garden space with art from upcycled materials. For each garden vignette, there’s a list of plants and materials you could use to recreate it.

El Charro

More Tucson Gems

After Tohono Chul, we ate lunch at the nearly 100-year-old restaurant El Charro. While there is a much closer location in Oro Valley, we opted to go to the original old building in Downtown.

It was the time of year where the Tucson Gem & Mineral Show® happens at the Tucson Convention Center. If you don’t have time for the massive, main show, you can get kind of a sampling at dozens of smaller gem shows that spring up around it.

Hub ice cream parlor

I knew that we’d be in walking distance of Hotel Tucson City Center, which had its own free, open-to-the public show with 300 vendors selling minerals and fossils on their property.

Before our guests returned to Phoenix, we took a drive around Downtown, stopping for ice cream at HUB.

 

Butterfly

Everything Changes

I’m extra grateful we happened to go on that day a year ago, just before a certain coronavirus would shut everything down, when 2020’s dumpster fire was only a spark.

After being closed for months, Tohono Chul has reopened 7 days a week with pandemic precautions in place (details below).

Many Downtown Tucson restaurants are open for takeout. El Charro is celebrating its 99th anniversary with a special menu. HUB Ice Cream Parlor has remodeled and now has a walk-up window.

While the main Tucson Gem & Mineral Show® has been canceled for 2021, Hotel Tucson is hosting their own gem show, currently scheduled for April 8-25.

Hotel Tucson
Hotel Tucson City Center.

On a more personal note, my parents’ Midwestern friends were getting ready to launch their annual winter visit, when my dad received a cancer diagnosis and found out he would need major surgery right away.

It has all given him – and us – a new perspective.

After coming through his surgery successfully, he made himself a rule to focus on the moment we have now. It’s a good thing to practice.

Treasure your corner of the desert.

Desert plants at Tohono Chul

– More Tohono Chul info –

 

Tohono Chul

Re-opening protocols (as of February 2021):

  • Instead of buying admission tickets at the Park, you purchase tickets for a specific time online in advance.
  • Shops and Garden Bistro have reopened with limited capacity.
  • Masks are required. If you forget yours, you can call from the parking lot and they’ll bring one out to your car.
  • B.Y.O.B.: bring your own (water) bottle! Drinking fountains are currently off-limits, but there are hands-free water bottle refill stations available.

If you’re not ready to go in person, there are lots of videos and resources to enjoy Tohono Chul @ Home.

 

Tohono Chul

Chicago Sightseeing on a Conference Schedule

Updated last: August 29, 2019.

Originally published June 25, 2014.

Chicago shore and skyline

This post came from finding ways to squeeze in a little Chicago sightseeing when I was headed to a conference that would be split between the massive McCormick Place convention center and hotels a few miles away, along the Chicago River. 

Now that I’m getting ready for another quick trip to Chicago, I’ve updated information and added to it.

Let me know what you like to do in the Windy City!

–Steph


McCormick Place exhibition hall

I had been to Chicago O’Hare. But the airport doesn’t count. I had driven by Chicago on the interstate. That doesn’t really count either. The first time I was really in the city of Chicago, it was for a conference. Which just barely counts.

McCormick Place in Chicago
Part of the massive McCormick Place convention center in Chicago.

A conference can be like its own self-contained universe. You can eat, sleep, socialize, work, learn, and be entertained for days without ever leaving its confines. Or ever talking to someone who isn’t wearing a lanyard. Whether you’re there for knowledge or networking, you want to get as much as you can out of the conference itself. But it’s also nice to see some of the area outside the convention center.

McCormick Place window

As I prepared for the 2013 BlogHer Annual Conference, I also looked into what was near the downtown convention centers and hotels where I would be starting from and how I could see a small slice of Chicago if I found a spare hour or two.

 

Floor clock
Floor Clock II by Vito Acconci in Ogden Park Plaza.

Make the Most of Museum Visits

Quick trips to museums can be particularly tricky!

  • They’re often only open 9-to-5-type hours, so it can be hard to fit into a full itinerary.
  • Admission is typically for a full day – worth it, but it can feel a bit pricey if you’re pressed for time and can’t stay long.

navy pier stained glass

While I couldn’t exactly find any special I’m-here-for-a-conference-and-only-have-an-hour discounts, here are some things to keep in mind to make the most of your museum visits…

  1. Reciprocal memberships: Do you have a membership to a science center or museum where you live? Find out whether it’s part of the ASTC Travel Passport Program (like The Field Museum) or offers other reciprocal privileges (like the Art Institute) that grant you free general admission. Remember to bring along your membership card and photo ID!
  2. Check for special events during the dates you’re in town. You may be able to take advantage of extended hours and/or discounts. However, the monthly or weekly Free Admission Days you’ll often see listed are specifically for Illinois residents.
  3. Find out what you can see for free. A full Soldier Field tour may not fit your schedule, but you can explore the Colonnade level of the stadium at your own pace. If the stars haven’t aligned for a visit to Adler Planetarium, you can scope out the Doane Observatory anytime the doors are open.

 

Lakefront Trail signage in Chicago

Starting from McCormick Place

McCormick Place is the largest conference center in the U.S. It feels isolated from the rest of downtown, but you’re a short cab ride away from all the sights.

 

Hyatt hotel at McCormick Place in Chicago

 

Lakefront Trail in Burnham Park

Burnham Park

Burnham Park runs along Lake Michigan. Locals hang out, picnic, and enjoy lake views.

  • It’s just outside of McCormick Place, but it still took me 15 minutes to wind my way through the convention center’s labyrinth of expo halls and walkways out to daylight. It’s that massive of a complex!
  • Lakefront Trail – Take a walk or run — if you haven’t already gotten enough exercise hoofing it over there. These bike and pedestrian trails go the length of Burnham Park — and beyond it!
  • Divvy Bike Share – You can purchase a Single Ride pass at Divvy Kiosks. $3 for 30 minutes.

 

McCormick Place bird sanctuary map

McCormick Bird Sanctuary

To get your wildlife fix, visit this 6-acre grassland preserve created as a habitat for migrating birds.

  • Many locals don’t seem to know this place exists, including the McCormick information desk staff – even though the bird sanctuary is just south of the conference center and literally built on top of one of their parking garages.
  • For best results, get directions out to the Lakefront, and then follow the signage and/or Google Maps to get the rest of the way there.
  • It’s part of the larger Burnham Wildlife Corridor.
  • PDF map + info

 

view of downtown Chicago from McCormick Place
View of Museum Campus and Downtown Chicago from McCormick Place.

Museum Campus Sights

If you have a little more time, there’s a lot to see at the nearby Museum Campus!

Adler Planetarium

Planetarium that seeks to connect people through the wonder of space science. Museum entry $19.

  • Doane Observatory: Large telescope outside of the planetarium with an open-door policy. Open daily 10am – 1pm or whenever conditions permit.
  • Doane at Dusk: Monthly telescope viewings and discussions with Adler Astronomers after museum hours. Free and open to the public on a first come, first served basis, weather permitting. Upcoming dates: 9/27 at 7:30pm, 11/22 at 7pm, 12/20 at 7pm
  • Adler After Dark: Evening event for adults (21+) every third Thursday of the month from 6-10pm. Includes full access to museum exhibits, unlimited sky shows, special guests, hands-on programs, access to Doane Observatory, live entertainment, and new themes every month. $20 advance / $25 at the door
  • ASTC Travel Passport Program participant.

 

Lake Michigan

The Field Museum

Natural and cultural history museum, including the fossil skeleton of T-Rex Sue. Basic admission $26.

  • ASTC Travel Passport Program participant.

Shedd Aquarium

Aquarium with a wide variety of aquatic creatures that also does Great Lakes conservation projects. Regular daytime admission is $40.

  • After Hours: Normally closing by 5 or 6pm, Shedd sometimes has extended-hours events for adults (21+). Upcoming 2019 dates: September 12 + 27 from 6-10pm. $25 admission.

 

Chicago hot dog
Chicago dog with the works.

Soldier Field

Stadium built in 1924 with capacity to seat over 100,000 people. It is on the National Register of Historic Places, was the site of the first International Special Olympics Games in 1968, and is the current home of the Chicago Bears.

  • Public tours are available on weekdays, subject to event schedules. You can book an advance ticket online or walk up (if space is available). Tickets $15.
  • Groups of 10 or more can book a private tour at least 2 weeks in advance.
  • Free: The Colonnade level of the stadium, with the original columns from 1924, is open to the public 6am-11pm on non-event days Spring through Fall. They are lit up each night with multi-colored LED lights.
  • Surrounding Soldier Field is a 17-acre park with features such as the Children’s Garden and Memorial Water Wall.

 

Navy Pier in Chicago
Lake Michigan from Navy Pier.

Chicago River Area (Near North Side)

For conference-goers staying on the Near North Side of downtown, there are a lot more options in walking distance.

The Art Institute of Chicago

Perusing art museums can be good for the soul.

Chicago Cultural Center

Known for its architectural features and event spaces, the building was originally opened in 1897 as Chicago’s first public library. Free.

  • Hours: Monday-Friday 10am–7pm, Saturday-Sunday 10am–5pm
  • 1st Floor: public restrooms, pedway access elevator, information desks and Welcome Center (for Millennium Park, Harris Theater, Lurie Garden, Maggie Daley Park, and The Art Institute of Chicago).
  • 3rd Floor (Washington Street Side): Tiffany Dome, the largest dome made out of Tiffany glass in the world.
  • Public wifi network “Chi-Fi.”

chicago river at night

Chicago River

Walk along it, take a river cruise, or just sit and watch boats go by.

A commenter suggested taking an architectural boat tour. A couple I found…

 

architecture on the Magnificent Mile
The Marina City apartment towers in Chicago’s Magnificent Mile.

Magnificent Mile

High-end retail district on and around Michigan Avenue.

Millennium Park

Iconic Chicago park just outside the Art Institute. Free.

  • Hours: 6am–11pm.
  • Take a photo under Cloud Gate, the large silver sculpture also known as “The Bean.”
  • Walk through Lurie Garden. Free 5-25 minute tours are offered on a first, come/first serve basis May to September on Thursdays and Fridays (11am – 1:15pm) + Sundays (11am – 2:15pm).
  • Catch a free concert.
  • The park has free wifi (!) Log in at “Park WiFi.”

 

Navy Pier entrance

Navy Pier

Rides, food, shows, and this random (but lovely) little stained glass museum when you’re ready for a quiet moment.
[Update: the stained glass museum has closed. Some of the works are on display in a corridor of Chicago’s underground Pedway.]

 

downtown Chicago
Downtown Chicago buildings, as seen on the ride from the airport.

West Side

Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) with its famous Sky Deck is about a mile inland. If you just have to go up but are short on time, they offer a Fast Pass with an elevator express lane for double triple the regular admission price. (Regular $25 / Fast Pass $75.)

For public radio fans, WBEZ’s Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me sells nonrefundable tickets ($30) to Chase Auditorium tapings 6 weeks in advance. Otherwise, you’ll have to take your chances the day of the show with the Wait Wait waiting list.

Canoe sculpture at Navy Pier
Monochrome II sculpture by Nancy Rubins. (This was at Navy Pier, but I’m not sure if it’s still there.)

Finally, you may not be able to do everything you’d like. But keep your eyes and ears open, and you might be able to catch a few glimpses of life in the city!


 

Chicago skyline

– More Chicago Info –

 

Flora + Fauna:

 

Stained glass window in Chicago

Stained Glass Windows in the Underground Pedway:

 

Burnham Park in Chicago

Vintage Travel Posters

vintage travel posters

I stumbled across all these 1930s Swiss and Italian travel posters online that are up for sale at an auction house in Dresden, Germany.

I had intended to quickly share some of my favorites, but then I got curious about some of the places pictured and ended up doing some research/getting sidetracked. So I have a little extra backstory for some of them.

 

Pilatus poster

Pilatus Bahn, Luzern – Pilatus Railway, Railway Chemin de Fer, Lucerne, Switzerland poster by Otto Ernst, c. 1930.

At first glance, I thought this was the same mountain railway (funicular) I’d posted about previously, Gelmerbahn, but it’s actually Pilatusbahn, which is on a different Swiss peak about 40 minutes away. Different sources claim each one to be the steepest cogwheel railway in Europe, so that may be where my confusion came from.

Pilatus - Esel Kulm Bahn

Anyway, I found a 2009 photo of Mt. Pilatus that was taken from almost the same angle as the poster – you can even see the little red funicular making its way down the hill (on possibly-the-steepest-grade track in Europe).

 

Genua und die Italienische Riviera – “Genoa and the Italian Riviera,” lithograph, 1931.

Are there palm trees in Genoa? I wouldn’t have guessed that, but I’m not going to verify that right now. This post has sent me down enough rabbit trails already! (Yeah, more are on the way, I just rearranged the post to spread them out a bit.) For now,  I’m going to refrain from even doing an image search.

 

summer in Switzerland poster

Leuchtender Sommer – Beschwingte Fahrt. Die schöne Schweiz – Zürich poster “Bright summer – Lively ride. The beautiful Switzerland.” by Augusto Giacometti, c. 1930.

This design is such a departure from your typical travel poster. Instead of focusing on a scene from a city or landscape, it’s just a close-up of a slightly abstracted, watercolor-y butterfly.

I also love that you can see slight creases in the paper. Someone must’ve folded it up at one point. I wonder what they did with it after that-? Did they put it in their pocket and take it home? I’m sure they’d be shocked to know it would eventually be unfolded and put up for auction.

 

Verona poster

Verona – Verona, Italy lithograph, c. 1930.

I found out that the structures depicted here are the Arche Scaligere, tombs of the Scaliger family, erected while they were still in power.

Arche scaligere, verona, italy

The coral-ish colored wall reminded me a bit of something from Venice. And, it turns out that Verona was, in fact, conquered by the Venetian Republic in 1405, just a few decades after the Arche Scaligere were completed.

 

Brescia tourist poster

Brescia – Brescia, Italy lithograph by Vincenzo Alicandri, c. 1930.

Speaking of Verona, Brescia was actually part of the same kingdom for 50 years or so, until it fell under Venetian control, shortly before Verona itself did.

See what I mean about rabbit trails? I didn’t know any of this before I started wondering about these posters.

 

Swiss Railways poster

Schweizerische Bundesbahnen – Swiss Railways poster by Emil Cardinaux, c. 1930.

I’m starting to think that all the trains in Switzerland are red, which isn’t a bad choice. Bright red looks fantastic against those alpine greens and blues!

 

Roma poster

Roma – Rome poster by Virgilio Retrosi, c. 1930.

The building with the horses on top is Il Vittoriano, a monument to the first king after Italy’s unification. The monument was completed in 1925, so it would’ve been new when this poster was made.

It seems like you can see Il Vittoriano from all over Rome. Even though it’s far in the background, look how large it still looms in this photo we took from the Palatine Hill overlooking the Roman Forum!

 

Davos travel poster

Davos für Sport und Gesundheit – “Davos [Switzerland] for Sport and Health” by Otto Bamberger, c. 1930.

This one might be my favorite. I just love the illustration style, and I can almost feel the cool mountain breeze. It looks like a nice spot for a picnic.

Which of these posters do you most wish you could just step right into? Leave me a comment, while I go google palm trees in the Italian Rivieria.

Forum in rome


Images:

Library on Hold: Burton Barr’s Borrowed Art Space

Ed Mell artwork

You have just over a week left to see the “Gems from the Burton Barr Library Art Collection” at Phoenix City Hall!

Yes, there’s a gallery inside City Hall. And, yes, there’s an exhibition of art from the library.

Phoenix tapestry

Library Unavailable Due to Water Damage

It was almost a year ago that a burst pipe in the central library wreaked enough havoc in a matter of minutes to require months of reconstruction.

Ed Mell paintings

With repairs in process, a selection of the library’s art was transferred to Gallery @ Phoenix City Hall. Located in a walled-off corner of the main lobby, the Gallery is only open during the work day.

Gallery at Phoenix city hall

Art by Pat Scheurich

Art to Check Out

The eclectic collection features work as varied as a series of paintings by Ed Mell, a piece by Joan Miró, and a traditional Navajo rug.

Traditional Navajo rug

Previously, the works on display had been scattered throughout the five-floor library building – including in tucked-away spots like the rare book room.

Joan Miró - Pygmées Sous La Lune

 

Phoenix library at park central

Reshelving Books

Since the unexpected shutdown, staff and programs have been on intralibrary loan to other branches. Many items are back in circulation thanks to a “pop up” library in a mall basement.

Phoenix library graphic novels

The temporary Phoenix Public Library branch in the lower level of Park Central Mall has books, computers, The Hive (co-working space), culture passes, a seed library, and lots of free parking.

Phoenix library at park central Sign

It’s a way to provide services for downtown patrons until Burton Barr can be opened again, hopefully, sometime this summer.

Phoenix seed library

 

Phoenix city hall

– More Info –

Gallery @ Phoenix City Hall

  • Free admission.
  • Open to the public from 10am to 2pm, Monday through Friday.
  • 200 W. Washington St., Phoenix, ground floor, just to the left of the metal detectors at the main entrance.
  • Light rail: Washington/Central
  • Parking: Street parking (metered) or 305 parking garage at 305 W. Washington St. ($4/hour)
  • Pick up some free Phoenix public art postcards after you see the exhibit.

 

Phoenix public library at park central

Phoenix Public Library @ Park Central

  • Open Monday through Saturday 9am to 5pm (or later), 1-5pm on Sundays.
  • 3110 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, basement level. Take the elevator beneath the big outdoor clock (between Jimmy John’s and Jamba Juice) down, and you’re there!
  • Light rail: Indian School/Central
  • Parking: free lot.

Springtime by George Elbert Burr