Pysanky: The Easter Eggs That Came Before Easter

Easter eggs

Despite what you may have heard, Easter eggs were not invented in a New Jersey pharmacy.

In fact, thousands of years before there was Paas, there were pysanky – eggs decorated in the ancient Ukrainian tradition.

Pysanka- Ukrainian Easter eggs
By Colby Stopa via Flickr. CCL.

“Ukrainians have been decorating eggs, creating these miniature jewels, for countless generations. There is a ritualistic element involved, magical thinking, a calling out to the gods and goddesses for health, fertility, love, and wealth. There is a yearning for eternity, for the sun and stars, for whatever gods that may be.”
Luba Petrusha of pysanky.info

For agrarian societies dependent on seasonal crops, the end of winter brings the beginning of the growing season and the food to survive. So the return of spring represents life in a very real way.

Pysanky
By Bo&Ko. CCL.

With this in mind, it makes sense that many cultures of the distant past worshiped the sun, including ancient Slavic peoples. To them, eggs were associated with springtime, the sun god, and the life-giving cycle of the seasons.

Kistka
A variety of styluses for creating pysanky, from traditional to modern. By Luba Petrusha. CCL.

Writing Pysanky

Pysanky are created using a wax resist process (similar to batik). Traditionally, you would have prepared dyes yourself, using natural materials like onion skins or red cabbage for color.

Then you would make the first part of your design on the egg’s shell by using a specialized stylus (a kistka) to apply melted beeswax, like putting a pen to paper. In fact, pysanka comes from the Ukrainian word for “write.”

Making a Ukrainian Easter egg.
Pysanka Brunch by Olga Strachna via Flickr (@olga_strachna). CCL.

After laying out the first part of your pattern in wax, you’d submerge the egg into your lightest shade of dye (let’s say yellow). While most of the egg then comes out yellow, your wax lines preserve the original color below (presumably, eggshell white).

Next, you’d put wax over the parts of your design that should remain yellow and sink the egg into the next darker shade of dye (maybe green).

You repeat the process of applying the wax and then submerging the egg in the next dye color, from lightest to darkest, for as many colors as you want in your design (or have dyes for).

Finally, you soften the wax and wipe it from the egg to reveal the full design.

Pysanka diagram
Diagram showing the step-by-step process of creating a single “pysanka”. Originally in V. Shukhevych’s 1902 “Hutsul’shchyna”, via UMA Cleveland.

Since it may be a bit hard to visualize, I highly recommend the 1975 short film Pysanka: The Ukrainian Easter Egg. You can see the process demonstrated from start to finish, while the narrator explains the traditions and beliefs that go along with the ancient art form.

 

Pysanky Easter eggs
By Luba Petrusha. CCL.

Easter

So where does Easter come in?

Pysanky existed centuries before the life of Christ. However, as the Christian Church spread, it had a tendency to adopt/appropriate parts of the local culture wherever it went. Pagan symbols were reinterpreted with Christian meanings. Even the word “Easter” itself likely comes from the name of Eostre, the Anglo-Saxon goddess of fertility and springtime.

Ukrainian Easter Basket
The tradition of blessing Easter baskets full of food continues to this day in Ukrainian Orthodox churches. Photo by Suburban Grandma.

Decorating eggs became less about the return of the sun god and more about the resurrection of Christ. Over time, the tradition lost many of its ritual components, becoming increasingly associated with the Christian faith and the Easter holiday specifically.

Simplified versions of the practice became Easter traditions in other parts of the world, as well.

 

New Jersey factory building
PAAS Easter egg dye company headquarters in Newark, circa 1931. Via NJ.com

Artificial Colors

By the 1800s, chemists had figured out how to make synthetic dyes. Among the products manufactured in the early days of this revolutionary technology were Easter egg coloring kits. So instead of using your own vegetable scraps or whatever, you could go purchase dyes at your local drugstore.

One of these drugstores was owned by William M. Townley in Newark, New Jersey. He stocked Easter egg dye kits imported from Germany (the top supplier of all things synthetic dye until WWI), but he wasn’t really happy with them.

So he came up with his own. While he didn’t invent Easter eggs, he did start selling dye powders in convenient pre-wrapped packets.

The product was such a hit that the Townley family transitioned from pharmacists to factory owners. The Paas Dye Company was created in 1881 and would soon be operating year round just to meet the Easter season demand.

 

Ukrainian Easter egg
By Orest Ukrainsky (@orest_u) via Flickr. CCL.

Hidden Easter Eggs

While springtime egg decorating became more common around the world, the tradition was officially prohibited in its country of origin when the Soviets took over in the 1930s. Perhaps the ban was because pysanky were associated with Christianity or perhaps because the art form is distinctly Ukrainian.

Still, the tradition survived, like countless other folk customs that empires have attempted to suppress. Some people made pysanky in secret. Others left Ukraine. These expats may have felt an even heavier responsibility to pass their culture on to the next generation.

 

Giant Pysanka - Vegreville
Giant Pysanka in Vegreville, Alberta by eileenmak via Flickr. CCL.

When Ukraine regained its independence in 1991, the art form experienced a resurgence. Today, you can see pysanky in museums or take a class on making your own. As fragile as pysanky may look, they are surprisingly durable.

 

– More Pysanka Info –

  • “Pysanka” is the singular form of the word, “pysanky” is plural. I’ve attempted to use Ukrainian terms correctly, but I do not speak the language, so don’t take my word for it!
  • I’ll mention again the film Pysanka: The Ukrainian Easter Egg. It’s only about 15 minutes long. If you’re at all interested in pysanky, watch it! And don’t let the slightly 1970s trippy intro dissuade you.
  • Pysanky.info – history, patterns, photos, all things pysanky
  • Symbols Used on Pysanky from University of Alberta
  • Ukrainian Easter Egg (Pysanka): Tradition And Design – firsthand perspective on Ukrainian Easter traditions from Suburban Grandma
  • “Eggs Hatch Rebirth of Ukraine Culture” – L.A. Times article published shortly after Ukrainian independence (March 1992) about Ukrainian-Americans being “keepers of the flame” of traditions like pysanka.
Easter egg
By Svitlana Frankiv. CCL.

Fundraisers for Ukraine:

Easter Egg (Pysanky) Workshop

  • April 30, 10am at St. Michael Ukrainian Catholic Church, Tucson.
  • $50 donation for registration benefits Ukrainian refugees and orphans.
  • Advance registration required.

May the 4th be with Ukraine

    • May 4, 6pm in the Hotel Congress Plaza, Tucson.
    • Live performances by Miss Olivia, Greg Morton, Salvador Duran, and Mark Insley.
    • All proceeds go to World Central Kitchen and the refugee resettlement efforts of Lutheran Social Services Southwest.
    • Donations online, at the door, and (if you’re unable to attend) checks payable to Hotel Congress LLC (memo: “May The Fourth Be with Ukraine”) and mailed to 311 E Congress St., Tucson, AZ 85701.

St. Mary’s Protectress Ukrainian Orthodox Church of Ukraine in Phoenix is raising funds for Humanitarian Aid to Ukraine.

  • Ongoing
  • So far they’ve donated $32,000 to support emergency relief efforts, like shipping medical supplies!
  • You can give via Paypal or credit card, check payable to St. Mary’s Protectress (memo: “Help Ukraine”), in person at the Ukrainian Cultural Center (730 W. Elm St, Phoenix, AZ 85013), or wire transfer (routing #021000021, account #767167682).

Vintage Travel Posters

vintage travel posters

I stumbled across all these 1930s Swiss and Italian travel posters online that are up for sale at an auction house in Dresden, Germany.

I had intended to quickly share some of my favorites, but then I got curious about some of the places pictured and ended up doing some research/getting sidetracked. So I have a little extra backstory for some of them.

 

Pilatus poster

Pilatus Bahn, Luzern – Pilatus Railway, Railway Chemin de Fer, Lucerne, Switzerland poster by Otto Ernst, c. 1930.

At first glance, I thought this was the same mountain railway (funicular) I’d posted about previously, Gelmerbahn, but it’s actually Pilatusbahn, which is on a different Swiss peak about 40 minutes away. Different sources claim each one to be the steepest cogwheel railway in Europe, so that may be where my confusion came from.

Pilatus - Esel Kulm Bahn

Anyway, I found a 2009 photo of Mt. Pilatus that was taken from almost the same angle as the poster – you can even see the little red funicular making its way down the hill (on possibly-the-steepest-grade track in Europe).

 

Genua und die Italienische Riviera – “Genoa and the Italian Riviera,” lithograph, 1931.

Are there palm trees in Genoa? I wouldn’t have guessed that, but I’m not going to verify that right now. This post has sent me down enough rabbit trails already! (Yeah, more are on the way, I just rearranged the post to spread them out a bit.) For now,  I’m going to refrain from even doing an image search.

 

summer in Switzerland poster

Leuchtender Sommer – Beschwingte Fahrt. Die schöne Schweiz – Zürich poster “Bright summer – Lively ride. The beautiful Switzerland.” by Augusto Giacometti, c. 1930.

This design is such a departure from your typical travel poster. Instead of focusing on a scene from a city or landscape, it’s just a close-up of a slightly abstracted, watercolor-y butterfly.

I also love that you can see slight creases in the paper. Someone must’ve folded it up at one point. I wonder what they did with it after that-? Did they put it in their pocket and take it home? I’m sure they’d be shocked to know it would eventually be unfolded and put up for auction.

 

Verona poster

Verona – Verona, Italy lithograph, c. 1930.

I found out that the structures depicted here are the Arche Scaligere, tombs of the Scaliger family, erected while they were still in power.

Arche scaligere, verona, italy

The coral-ish colored wall reminded me a bit of something from Venice. And, it turns out that Verona was, in fact, conquered by the Venetian Republic in 1405, just a few decades after the Arche Scaligere were completed.

 

Brescia tourist poster

Brescia – Brescia, Italy lithograph by Vincenzo Alicandri, c. 1930.

Speaking of Verona, Brescia was actually part of the same kingdom for 50 years or so, until it fell under Venetian control, shortly before Verona itself did.

See what I mean about rabbit trails? I didn’t know any of this before I started wondering about these posters.

 

Swiss Railways poster

Schweizerische Bundesbahnen – Swiss Railways poster by Emil Cardinaux, c. 1930.

I’m starting to think that all the trains in Switzerland are red, which isn’t a bad choice. Bright red looks fantastic against those alpine greens and blues!

 

Roma poster

Roma – Rome poster by Virgilio Retrosi, c. 1930.

The building with the horses on top is Il Vittoriano, a monument to the first king after Italy’s unification. The monument was completed in 1925, so it would’ve been new when this poster was made.

It seems like you can see Il Vittoriano from all over Rome. Even though it’s far in the background, look how large it still looms in this photo we took from the Palatine Hill overlooking the Roman Forum!

 

Davos travel poster

Davos für Sport und Gesundheit – “Davos [Switzerland] for Sport and Health” by Otto Bamberger, c. 1930.

This one might be my favorite. I just love the illustration style, and I can almost feel the cool mountain breeze. It looks like a nice spot for a picnic.

Which of these posters do you most wish you could just step right into? Leave me a comment, while I go google palm trees in the Italian Rivieria.

Forum in rome


Images:

On an Uphill Track: Funiculars

Los Angeles funicular Angels Flight - current

Los Angeles funicular Angels Flight - current

I first encountered the word funicular on a hillside in Sedona. Known as the “Hillevator” (hill + elevator), the small railway gave tourists a shortcut between Uptown Sedona and L’Auberge Resort and Oak Creek at the bottom of the hill.

Hillavator in Sedona

While I’m a bit fuzzy on the exact definition (I think it involves cables and pulleys), a funicular is basically a passenger vehicle that goes up and down a hill on a track.

Hillavator Sedona by Tiffany Joyce

By nature, they’re very localized and customized to the spot they’re in. Maybe that’s why I find them intriguing.


Angels Flight Railway, Los Angeles, California

While Sedona’s Hillevator is now out of commission, another quirky old funicular has recently come back to life. After its brief appearance in the movie La La Land, the push to restore the Angels Flight Railway in Downtown Los Angeles may have gained steam, and it reopened in August of 2017.

  • Called “The Shortest Railroad in the World,” it travels a single block.
  • At the bottom: Grand Central Market
  • At the top: California Plaza – Los Angeles Musuem of Contemporary Art, Grand Performances amphitheater, and restaurants
  • Virtual 3D tour
  • In 1901, Colonel James Ward Eddy built the Angels Flight funicular. More recently, his great-great-grandson built the Angels Flight app.
  • One way: $1

 


Penang Hill funicular

Penang Hill Railway, Penang, Malaysia

  • Longest Funicular Track in Asia
  • Located on the Malaysian island of Penang
  • At the bottom: Jalan Bukit Bendera base station near George Town.
  • At the top: former British hill station Penang Hill. The resort town’s attractions include the three-storey Astaka Cliff Cafe, which houses food courts, souvenir stands, an owl museum, and Love Lock Penang Hill.
  • Round trip: RM 30 (standard), RM 80 (fast lane)

Love Unlocked

 

Flowers in Grimsel, Switzerland Picture: KWO / Photo: David Birri http://gallery.grimselstrom.ch/grimselerlebnis/grimselwelt/taelli/
Gelmer Funicular

Gelmer Funicular, Innertkirchen, Switzerland

 

100 Street Funicular, Edmonton, Alberta

  • Opened this past December to provide wheelchair and stroller access to river valley trail system.
  • Has already been out of service repeatedly, partly because of cold weather. (Not sure why that was a surprise in Canada!)
  • At the bottom: River Valley Promenade
  • At the top: Promontory viewpoint, Hotel Macdonald
  • Free

 

Glória Funicular, Lisbon, Portugal

Ascensores e Elevador, Lisbon, Portugal

 

Images via WellingtonNZ.com

Wellington Cable Car, Wellington, New Zealand

 

Have you ever ridden in this type of vehicle? Where were you?

 


Photo sources:

Angels Flight by Channone Arif (CCL)

 

Sedona –

  • From a print of a photo I took in the early 2000s. Our friend Ozan was joking around with his hands on the window. (He’s not trapped in there or anything.)
  • Tiffany Joyce (CCL). She actually got married in Sedona when the Hillavator was still in operation!

 

Los Angeles –

 

Penang Hill –

 

Switzerland –

 

Edmonton –

 

Lisbon –

 

Wellington –

7 Things to Love About High Speed Rail

Luggage on train

[Some thoughts Phillip wrote down during our journey from Rome to Venice on a high speed Italo Treno train. –S]


Italo Treno

How do I love thee high-speed train travel? Let me count the ways!

After my first trip on high speed rail in Italy, I’m a believer!

View from train in italy

Here are some things I loved about traveling on a train instead of flying:

1. You don’t have to check your luggage, so it’s way less likely to be lost.

2. Quick boarding and deboarding time.

Luggage on train

3. You can move around. Since there’s no turbulence, there’s no “fasten seatbelt sign,” and you can get up and down whenever you want.

4. No extreme pressure changes.

5. No taxi time or Air Traffic Control delays. (For example, when we were traveling back to Phoenix, our plane was stuck on the ground close to 40 minutes at JFK airport).

Luggage on train

6. You can keep your phone on. No need to put it in “airplane mode” on a train.

7. Still very fast (250 kmh/150mph). A plane travels around 500 mph, but with all the extra time and hassle at the airport, it might still take about the same amount of time to get to your destination.




We were guests of Italo Treno.

Around the Baggage Carousel

Airport

We definitely thought we’d sleep on the overnight flight from L.A. to Paris.

Flight

But we were mistaken.

Instead, we arrived at Paris-Charles De Gaulle airport in an exceptionally groggy state with an hour to get through the passport line, collect and re-check our baggage, and catch our connecting flight.

Air France plane

But we were misinformed.

Our bags wouldn’t be coming down the luggage conveyor we were watching so intently. By the time we realized they were booked through and already on the plane for Madrid, we almost didn’t make the flight, arriving breathless at the gate as final boarding calls were announced.

Paris airport shuttle

The plane took off, and we could see the Seine below us through breaks in the clouds.

Seine from the plane

A couple hours later in Madrid, we found ourselves once again staring down a baggage carousel, so we could switch airlines for our last flight.

Plane

It was around 11pm when that flight landed in Rome, and we went – one more time – to wait for our bags.

Baggage claim

And that is how you tour three European capitals’ baggage claim areas in one day.

Madrid airport: buen viaje




 

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