3 Things We Got Wrong About Venice’s Regata Storica

The Regata Storica (‘historical regatta”) is a centuries-old tradition that takes place on the Grand Canal of Venice every September. The main event is made up of four different rowing races, as well as a parade of decorated boats with costumed passengers.

I was looking forward to watching it during our trip last year and did some research ahead of time to find out what to expect.

Despite all the travel articles and books and forums I read to prepare, I ended up way off about some major things…

1. It’s more of a local event and not big with tourists. [FALSE]

Maybe it was what I had read about neighborhood groups decorating parade boats. Or the fact that the races are the height of Venice’s competitive rowing season. Or about locals packing picnics and watching the Regata from their own boats. Or the fact that it’s not a recently-concocted event – it spans back to the days of the Republic.

Maybe it was all those things put together. But somehow I got the impression that the Regata Storica was a matter of Venetian city pride that wasn’t really on the radar for outsiders.

The reality, though, is that the word is definitely out. It was not the quaint, mostly-local event I had envisioned. Instead, on the Sunday of the Regata Storica, the city’s streets swelled with swarms of sightseers.

Which I did not expect and which is directly related to another misconception I had…

2. It would be easy to find a spot to watch the Regata. [NOPE]

While you can pay to watch the Regata from a seat in kind of a floating grandstand, the general consensus seemed to be that the reserved seats weren’t really worth the price – especially when you have the option to watch it for free.

Most people watch the Regata just like your hometown parade. It’s free to stand or sit along the main “street” (in this case, the Grand Canal).

On top of this, I had heard that people don’t really show up early to stake out a spot. So I was pretty sure we’d be able to just show up, find an unpopulated stretch, and plop ourselves down.

In fact, it seemed so much like a non-issue that Phillip and I decided to squeeze in some extra time at the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, even if it meant showing up a little late.

We even grabbed a quick bite, since it was approaching 4pm, and we hadn’t stopped for lunch.

By the time we went to look for a spot, the Regata was already well underway and spectators several deep crowded the edge of the canal.

We finally found a spot near a little gondola dock, where the crowd seemed slightly more sparse. And the people in front of us eventually left, opening up space on the ground for us to sit.

3. We’d have a clue what was going on. [STILL NO.]

Things I read kept going into all this detail about the different types of boats that would be racing – this kind has two adult rowers, that kind has two younger rowers, another kind has women racing in masks in tribute to the masked prostitute rowers of the past.

I just thought “okay, I get it. When I see boats with 2 people rowing, I’ll know they’re the kind of boats with 2 rowers.”

But I also thought it would be clear cut and obvious, one event after another. Instead, we came in the middle of it all, and it seemed all be happening at once – historic boats parading, racers (I’m not sure which ones) racing, and some random boats floating by too.

Somewhere there was a loudspeaker with a commentator speaking very fast Italian. I listened for the names of those different kinds of boats I’d been reading about, but the words all ran together.

It just underscores the fact that you can read all about something and still be surprised when you experience it firsthand.

And that’s a good reason to travel.

This week I’ve been watching the video I took, and, honestly, I’m still unsure about what exactly is going on when. But I’m glad we got to witness it.

That said, this year, Phillip and I will be making mimosas and watching the Regata from our living room.

– More Regata Storica Info –

The Regata Storica will take place tomorrow (Sunday, 9/2) at 4pm local time (and 7am here in Arizona).
You should be able to watch it via one of the livestreams of the Grand Canal on YouTube (like this one from a hotel with good views) or live on the Regata Storica Facebook page.
Highlights of last year’s Regata Storica and the Grand Canal (my video).

If you go IRL…

Reserved seats are €60. I read more than one complaint about giant monitors on the grandstand blocking the view of the race itself.
Expect crowds!
I’m not sure how early to suggest you show up – but definitely earlier than we did!

February 26, 2018February 26, 2018

January 2018: Eruption

Since we couldn’t work a Naples/Pompeii visit into our Italy trip (another one of those trade-offs) even though I’d always wanted to go, I basically lost my mind when I read there would be an exhibition with artifacts from Pompeii at the Arizona Science Center here in Phoenix. Pompeii was coming to me!

One of the events surrounding the exhibit was a simulation of the historic eruption of Mt. Vesuvius with lava flows projected onto the outside of the building, and smoke, bursts of flame, and “ash” coming from the top.

It was quite the spectacle. But I was honestly more moved by the exhibit inside, by household items that look just as they did when they were in use nearly 2000 years ago and by the tragic fate of people who possessed them.

The exhibition was very well done, putting the items in context with wall-sized photos of the architectural site and video reconstructions of the city.

It is in Phoenix through May, and I believe it will be on tour for awhile. I would definitely recommend seeing Pompeii if it comes to you.

January 4, 2018December 14, 2017

Love Lock Update

After researching how the love lock trend has gone out of control in many European tourist areas, I’m happy to report that we barely saw any locks weighing down bridges or monuments when we were in Italy.

Venice

I was honestly a little worried that the Venice bridges Mark and Dawn Hawk cleared last spring might be covered again. Thankfully, that was not the case.

We only spotted a cluster (or two) of rusty locks near Piazza San Marco (the eye of the Venice tourism hurricane) and a few stray locks on railings here and there.

Rome

It was similar in Rome. There would be up to maybe half a dozen on a random piece of a bridge railing or a lamppost.

Maybe it helped that peak tourist season was over. Maybe word is getting out.

Sedona

On the other hand, they’re still happily accepting love locks in the Plaza de la Fuente at Sedona’s Tlaquepaque.

We checked it out when we were there in October, and Phillip was impressed with just how heavy a mass of locks can be.

November 30, 2017November 30, 2017

7 Things to Love About High Speed Rail

[Some thoughts Phillip wrote down during our journey from Rome to Venice on a high speed Italo Treno train. –S]

How do I love thee high-speed train travel? Let me count the ways!

After my first trip on high speed rail in Italy, I’m a believer!

Here are some things I loved about traveling on a train instead of flying:

1. You don’t have to check your luggage, so it’s way less likely to be lost.

2. Quick boarding and deboarding time.

3. You can move around. Since there’s no turbulence, there’s no “fasten seatbelt sign,” and you can get up and down whenever you want.

4. No extreme pressure changes.

5. No taxi time or Air Traffic Control delays. (For example, when we were traveling back to Phoenix, our plane was stuck on the ground close to 40 minutes at JFK airport).

6. You can keep your phone on. No need to put it in “airplane mode” on a train.

7. Still very fast (250 kmh/150mph). A plane travels around 500 mph, but with all the extra time and hassle at the airport, it might still take about the same amount of time to get to your destination.

We were guests of Italo Treno.

October 30, 2017October 30, 2017